The expansion board, and which way round it goes
The base adds a battery connector, a charger and a power switch. It will also accept the C3 board turned around, in which orientation the battery rail lands on GPIO 3 and the board does not survive the first flick of the switch.
What the base is for
The C3 board runs off USB and nothing else. The expansion base is what makes it a thing you can carry: a JST PH 2.0 socket for a lithium cell, a charger that tops the cell up when USB is plugged in and the switch is ON, a slide switch between the cell and the board, and a pad you can bridge to let the board measure its own battery.
The switch also disconnects the battery from the charger when OFF. In that position, USB power can make the charge LED flicker or look half-lit without charging the cell. The charging instructions and LED states explain what to expect.
The two rows of holes on the base are the same footprint as the two rows on the C3 board, in the same order, so the C3 board drops straight onto it.
It drops on just as neatly the other way round.
Which pad meets which
The header is not symmetrical. One row is eight GPIOs; the other ends in 5 V, ground and 3.3 V. Rotate the board through 180° and those three land on the pins marked 3, 4 and 5 — so the battery rail goes into three chip inputs with nothing between them, and one of the three is half of the display's bus.
The rule printed on the box is antenna at the power-switch end, USB-C at the
battery-connector end. That is correct, and it is also a rule you have to
remember. The check that does not need remembering is to read one label on each
board: find V5 on the C3 board and 5V on the base, and make sure they are at
the same end. If they are, all sixteen are.
Do that with the switch off and the USB cable out.
The battery
Use a 3.7 V lithium polymer cell with a protection circuit on it — a PCM or BMS board, which almost every pouch cell sold with a JST lead already has. The charger on the base takes the cell up to 4.2 V and stops; it does not protect against over-discharge, and a lithium cell taken below about 3 V is damaged rather than flat. The protection circuit is what handles that, and it is not optional.
The connector is JST PH, 2 mm pitch, two pins. The polarity is printed on the
board: there is a + on the silkscreen beside the positive pin. Trust that
rather than a description of which side it is on, because which side it is on
depends on which way up you are holding the base.
Cell leads are not standardised — the same red-and-black pair comes wired both ways round depending on who assembled it — and a reversed cell is the second way to lose the board. If the lead did not come with the base, put a meter across it and check before you plug it in.
The battery monitor pad
Beside the connector there is a small block of silkscreen marked BATTERY MONITOR and IO2, with two resistors and an open solder jumper. The two
resistors are a divider across the battery; the jumper connects its midpoint to
GPIO 2.
It ships open, and that is deliberate — a divider bridged across a cell draws from it continuously, and a pin is worth more than a reading you were not going to take. Bridge it only if you are going to use it, and know that GPIO 2 stops being a free pin the moment you do. Reading it is a later article.
When it does not work
Check the switch legend first — ON and OFF are printed on the base either side of the slider and it is easy to read the wrong one. Then check the battery: a protected cell that has been over-discharged has latched its protection circuit off and will do nothing until a charger wakes it. Plug USB in and see whether the CHG LED lights.
It is a charge indicator, so it stays lit while current is going into the cell. A large cell takes hours. If it is still lit after most of a day, either the cell is much bigger than you think or its protection board is limiting the current, and neither is a fault of the base.
Switch off and check the orientation before anything else. Turned around, the base's 5 V pad meets the pin marked 3, ground meets 4, and 3.3 V meets 5 — three chip pins driven from the battery rail. If that has happened the board usually does not come back, and there is nothing to repair.
Feed 5 V into the V5 hole and ground into GD, and leave the battery connector empty. Do not feed anything into V3 while USB is also connected — that puts your supply directly against the regulator's output.
No driver, one board selection, and one menu row that decides whether the board can talk back to you.
Arduino IDE, set up for this board →Edit this page — content/boards/c3-oled/the-expansion-board.mdx
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ESP32-C3 OLED Development Board with Expansion Base
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