DRV8833/Two things to settle before you solder/03. Choosing your connectors
Two things to settle before you solder · 03 of 11

Choosing your connectors

Four interfaces, and the right answer is almost never the same one four times. Current goes on screws, logic goes on a header, and the joint that fails first is the one carrying a motor.

Decide all four at once

Four interfaces, decided separately
0 soldered
Power inAll of the motor currentremovable, holds a bare lead
Motor AOne motor's currentremovable, holds a bare lead
Motor BOne motor's currentremovable, holds a bare lead
Control headerLogic onlyremovable, and pulls out under a tug
Motor current on a header
0
Screw blocks
3
Permanent joints
0
Current on screws, logic on a header. The control header has no screw-block footprint, so its choice is a header or wires. None of these comes off again without a hot iron, which is the reason the board ships with nothing fitted and the reason to decide the whole build before the iron is hot.

The interfaces are not equivalent, and the difference is what each one carries. Power in and the two motor terminals carry motor current, which on this board can reach the overcurrent trip somewhere between 2 and 3.3 A. The control header carries logic, plus VM and GND brought out; none of its signal pins is in the motor's current path.

That splits the decision. Anything in the current path wants a joint that is mechanically solid: a screw block, or solder. The control header wants a joint you can pull off and re-seat while you are still working out which GPIO went where, which is a pin header. It has no screw-block footprint anyway.

What each option is good at

Soldered wire is the lowest resistance and the most permanent. It is the right answer for a build that is finished, and the wrong one for a board that is still moving between projects.

A 2.54 mm header is removable, cheap, and what a jumper wire expects. It is also a spring contact, which is fine for logic and poor for a motor lead being shaken by the motor it feeds.

A KF301 screw block takes a bare stranded lead with no crimp and survives being pulled, which is why it is on motor products. The cost is size: about 10 mm in each direction, sitting on top of the pad names.

The common build

Screw blocks on power in, Motor A and Motor B; a pin header on the control side.

The DRV8833 board at three-quarter view with the common build fitted: a red two-way screw terminal for power at the back edge, a black two-way screw terminal on each side for Motor A and Motor B, and a right-angle eight-pin header along the front edge with its pins pointing forward, the chip visible between the blocks.
Screw blocks where the current is, a right-angle header where the logic is. The red block is the power input; the black ones are the motors.

A right-angle header keeps the jumper wires flat and clear of the screw blocks, with the header's printed names still in view.

When it does not work

The motor stutters when the chassis moves

A 2.54 mm jumper socket is a spring contact, and a motor that jerks is a motor working to unplug itself. Intermittent motor current also looks exactly like a flat battery and exactly like a loose ground, which is why it costs an evening.

The screw block will not hold the wire

Strip about 5 mm and tighten onto bare copper, not onto insulation or a tinned tip. Solder on a stranded end creeps under pressure, so a joint that was tight last week is loose this week.

There is not room for a screw block

A two-way KF301 is about 10 mm wide as well as tall. If the build is tight, solder the motor leads directly, or fit the two-pin 2.54 mm header that shares each terminal's pads, and keep the removable connector for the control side.

Where this goes next

One fact about the motor terminals decides whether two motors wired the same way agree or oppose, and the board prints it on both faces.

Which pad is OUT1

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