Headers on, and which way round
Solder the header strips on with the long pins pointing away from the parts, using the shield to hold them straight. Then seat the board with its antenna at the shield's switch end. It also fits turned round, and turned round it puts the board's 3.3 V into the shield's ground.
Headers first
Each board takes two of the strips, one down each row. The pins go in from the underside, so the long ends point away from the parts and the labels stay on top where you can read them.
The easy way to get them straight is to let a shield hold them:
- Push both strips, long ends down, into the shield's two inner socket rows.
- Lay the board over them, parts up, antenna at the switch end.
- Solder one pin at each end of each row, and check that the board sits flat.
- Solder the rest, then lift the board out with the strips attached.
Twenty-six joints, each one a cone of shiny solder around the pin. A joint that looks like a grey ball is not holding, and a joint that joins its neighbour is a short — cold joints and bridges has pictures of both.
Which way round
The shield has the switch at one end and USB printed at the other. The board has its antenna at one end and USB-C at the other. They go together the obvious way: antenna over the switch, USB-C over the word USB.
Why turned round is not just the wrong labels
Both rows are thirteen holes long, so the board fits in either way. Turned round, every pin is in the wrong socket, and three of them matter:
- The board's 3V pin sits in the shield's GND socket.
- The board's G pin sits in the shield's 3V socket.
- The shield's 36 socket, where the battery monitor lands, holds the board's GPIO 13.
The shield's ground is the cell's negative, and the TO ESP32 cable joins that to the board's own ground. So with the cable connected, the regulator's 3.3 V output is shorted to ground through the shield. Check both ends before the cell goes in, every time you seat a board.
Then the cable
With the board seated, run one of the six cables from the shield's TO ESP32 socket to the board's own battery socket, red wire to the + mark at each end. That cable is the only way the cell reaches the board. The cell itself goes in LIPO BTT — which pin is plus before you do.
When it does not work
A pin is bent or has a blob of solder on its side. Pull the board out, look along each row, straighten a bent pin with pliers and remove extra solder with wick. Forcing it bends the shield's socket contacts instead.
Unplug the cell and USB, turn the board to the right way, and power it from USB alone with no cell. If it runs and the LED on GPIO 22 still blinks with the blink sketch, carry on. If the board is warm on USB alone, set it aside.
Yes. Plug a cell straight into the board's own socket, and it charges and runs from it. You lose the switch, the fuse and the battery monitor, so unplug the cell to turn it off.
Reheat one joint at a time and press the strip straight while the solder is liquid. Next time, put the strips into the shield's sockets first and lay the board over them before soldering, so the shield holds them square.
One board setting, and an LED that lights when its pin is LOW.
Blink the LED on GPIO 22 →Edit this page — content/books/esplipo/onto-a-shield.mdx
Questions about this product
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ESP32 LiPo Dev Kit: 3 Boards with LiPo Charger + 3 Shields
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