LED bar graph/Why a bar of ten/02. Ten LEDs in one package
Why a bar of ten · 02 of 11

Ten LEDs in one package

Twenty pins in two rows, 0.3 inches apart, so it straddles a breadboard's centre channel like a small chip. One row is the anodes and one is the cathodes, nothing printed on it says which, and getting it backwards costs you nothing but a minute.

Twenty pins, ten circuits

The package is 25.4 mm long and 10.1 mm wide, with ten pins along each side at the usual 2.54 mm spacing. The two rows are 7.62 mm apart — 0.3 inches, the width of a narrow chip — so it sits across the channel in the middle of a breadboard with five free holes on each side of every pin.

Inside, there is nothing but ten LEDs. Pin 1 of the top row and pin 1 of the bottom row are the two ends of segment one, and so on down the bar. No common pin, no driver, no chip.

Ten LEDs, twenty pins, one direction
as wired
Which way the bar is in the breadboard
Segments
10
Pins
20
Segment current
14 mA
Ten separate LEDs, and no chip anywhere. One row of ten pins is the anodes, the other row is the cathodes, and each pair is one segment. Nothing inside the package joins them, which is why ten wires go in and why there is nothing to “initialise”.

Which way round

One row is the anodes and the other is the cathodes, and nothing printed on the part tells you which. That sounds worse than it is, because of what happens when you guess wrong: an LED simply does not conduct backwards, so the whole supply sits across it, no current flows, and the bar stays dark. Nothing gets hot. Turn it round and try again.

The 220 Ω resistors on the board in the box are what make that safe. A bare LED straight across 5 V, the right way round, is a different story.

The underside of a bar graph package, translucent so the internal board shows through: ten pins along the top edge, ten along the bottom, and a row of small round LED dies visible between them with the part number printed on the board.
Seen from underneath. Ten dies, ten pairs of pins, and no connection at all between one segment and the next.

The frame

Each bar comes with a printed frame that it sits in. It is a surround rather than a case: it hides the edge of the package, keeps dust off the windows, and makes a lit bar read as a panel instead of a component. It does not change the pin spacing, so a framed bar still goes in a breadboard.

The model for it is in the kit's example download, so a frame that goes missing can be printed again.

When it does not work

Which row of pins is the anode row?

There is no marking that tells you, and the part number printed on the body is not a reliable guide either. The honest answer is that you find out by trying: wire it, run the sketch, and if nothing lights, lift the bar out and turn it end for end. With the 220 Ω resistor board in the circuit there is nothing that can be damaged by having it round the wrong way.

It will not sit in the breadboard

The two rows are 7.62 mm apart, which is 0.3 inches — the same as a narrow DIP chip. It has to straddle the channel down the middle of the board, with five rows of holes on each side. If you try to put both rows in the same half, the pins do not reach.

One segment is dark and the other nine work

Move that one wire to a neighbouring segment. If the segment lights, the wire or the breadboard hole was the problem; if it stays dark on a pin you know works, the LED itself has failed. There are twelve bars in the box, which is the reason there are twelve.

Can I bend the pins to fit a narrower space?

You can, once, carefully, and the lead frame does not enjoy it. If the bar has to go somewhere awkward, solder wires to it rather than reshaping the pins — the printed frame in the box is designed around the part's own dimensions.

Where this goes next

What is in the box, and the volt of difference between two of the colours and the other four.

Twelve bars, six colours

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