PD trigger/What you actually get/09. What the charger must offer
What you actually get · 09 of 11

What the charger must offer

The board can only ask. A charger that was never built with a 12 V rail says no, and says it silently — the LED still lights, the board still works, and you still have 5 V.

Asking is not getting

The chip sends a request. The charger answers it, and it can only answer with something it was built to produce.

Will this charger do it?
12 V agreed
Charger
Levers ask for
Asked
12 V
Got
12 V
Available
1.7 A
Agreed — 12 V, up to about 1.7 A. The current comes from the charger’s wattage divided by the voltage, so the higher you go the less current is on offer: the same 20 W brick gives 4.0 A at 5 V and 1.0 A at 20 V.

A refusal is not an error condition. The supply simply does not accept the request and carries on doing what it was already doing, which is 5 V. Nothing on the board changes: the LED is lit either way, nothing gets warm, nothing clicks. The only place the difference shows up is on a meter at the screw terminal.

That silence is the single biggest source of confusion with these boards, and it is worth internalising before you start blaming solder joints.

Read the case, not the wattage

The voltages are printed on every compliant charger, usually in a line of small type on the body:

Output: 5V⎓3A  9V⎓3A  12V⎓3A  15V⎓3A  20V⎓3.25A  (65W Max)

That list is the contract. If 15 V is not in it, no trigger board of any design will produce 15 V from that charger, because there is no 15 V in there to produce.

Wattage is a separate number and it does not imply the list. Plenty of 30 W chargers do all five voltages; plenty of 45 W chargers skip 15 V. And the wattage is a ceiling across all of them, not a guarantee at each one — a 30 W charger at 20 V is offering 1.5 A, not 1.5 A and 30 W of headroom.

The current falls as the voltage rises

Watts are volts times amps, so the same charger offers less current the higher you go. A 65 W supply is good for 13 A at 5 V on paper and about 3.25 A at 20 V — and in practice the 5 V figure is capped far lower by the cable and by the specification.

Pick the voltage your load actually wants rather than the highest the charger will do. Running a 12 V strip from 20 V through a regulator wastes the difference as heat, and the strip does not care where the volts came from.

When it does not work

My 20 W phone charger will not do 15 V

Read the small print on its case. Most 20 W phone chargers advertise 5 V, 9 V and 12 V and stop there, because 20 W at 12 V is already 1.67 A. Fifteen and twenty volts appear on chargers built for laptops, not phones.

Two chargers of the same wattage behave differently

Wattage does not fix the list. A 30 W charger may advertise 5, 9, 12, 15 and 20 V, or only 5, 9 and 15 V, and both are legitimate. The list printed on the case is the only reliable statement of what a charger owns.

A power bank works at 12 V but the wall charger does not

Then the power bank advertises 12 V and the charger does not, which is common and is nothing to do with either being better. Check both cases for their voltage lists before assuming the board is at fault.

It worked yesterday on the same charger

Check the cable before the charger. A charge-only lead with no CC conductor stops the negotiation happening at all and leaves you at 5 V, and it looks exactly like every other cable. Swap for a lead you know carries data.

Where this goes next

100 W is 20 V × 5 A, and 5 A needs a cable with a chip in it. With an ordinary lead the same board tops out at 60 W.

A hundred watts is a cable question

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