The 3.3 V budget
The standard board's 3.3 V comes from an XC6206, a regulator rated for 200 mA. Both sides share it. That is plenty for sensors and a small display, and not enough for an ESP32 with Wi-Fi on — which should take 5 V and make its own 3.3 V.
One small regulator
Both 3V3 positions are fed by the same part: U13, an XC6206P332MR, a 3.3 V regulator in a three-pin SOT-23 package, three millimetres long. It takes the 5 V rail and holds 3.3 V at its output.
Torex's datasheet gives it a maximum output current of 200 mA, and a dropout of about a quarter of a volt at 100 mA: it needs its input only that much above 3.3 V to keep regulating. The 5 V rail is well over a volt above that, so the 3.3 V holds steady even when the 5 V sags.
Shared between both sides
That 200 mA is the regulator's, not each side's. With both switches on 3V3, the two sides draw from the same part, so add them up.
What fits comfortably:
- sensors — a BME280, an SHT31, a light sensor — a milliamp or less each;
- a small OLED, a few tens of milliamps;
- a handful of LEDs through their resistors.
What does not: a Wi-Fi microcontroller. An ESP32 transmitting pulls well over 300 mA in bursts, and the regulator cannot follow. The 3.3 V rail dips during each burst and the ESP32 resets.
Feed a dev board 5 V instead
A dev board has its own 3.3 V regulator, sized for its own chip. So set one side to 5V, wire that rail to the dev board's 5V or VIN pin, and let the dev board make its 3.3 V. The adapter's 5 V side is limited only by the half-amp fuse, and the dev board's 3.3 V pin can then power small parts beside it.
Keep the standard board's 3.3 V side for the parts that need little: the sensors and displays that make up most of a breadboard.
Heat
A regulator like this one makes 3.3 V by turning the rest of the input into heat. At 4.7 V in and 150 mA out it drops 1.4 V, which is about a fifth of a watt. Torex rates the bare SOT-23 package for a quarter of a watt on its own, so near the top of its current rating it runs hot. It will not fail quietly — it limits its own current — but a hot regulator is a rail about to sag.
When it does not work
Wi-Fi transmits in bursts that pull well over 300 mA, and the regulator on this board is rated for 200 mA. The 3.3 V rail sags during the burst and the ESP32's brownout detector resets it. Move the ESP32's supply wire to a side set to 5V and into its 5V or VIN pin: its own regulator is built for those bursts.
The regulator is being asked for more than it can give and has started limiting its own current. Add up what both 3.3 V sides draw; if it is near 200 mA, move the heaviest part to 5 V with its own regulator, or to the step-down board set to 3.3 V.
That is the 3.3 V regulator, and it turns the difference between about 4.7 V and 3.3 V into heat, times the current. At 150 mA that is about a fifth of a watt in a three-millimetre package, which is hot to touch. It protects itself, but it is a sign to take load off the 3.3 V side.
No. The regulator needs only about a quarter of a volt more at its input than it gives out, and the 5 V rail is well over a volt above 3.3 V even at half an amp. The 3.3 V holds steady while the 5 V moves.
The step-down board, and a trimmer that only does anything for a fifth of its travel.
Setting the step-down →Edit this page — content/books/bbpwd/the-3v3-budget.mdx
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